‘You should learn to love the winter landscape’ a friend recently told me – ‘You get see the bones and the shapes that lie underneath.’ I’d never thought of it like that. Usually I’d use terms like ‘barren’, ‘desolate’ and ‘gnarled’ to describe it. Missing the colour of Autumn, the bucolic prettiness of Spring. Seeing it in terms of something lacking.
But a few flowers still struggle on in the garden- even an abundance of lavender, which would seem to be breaking the rules. Surprisingly a couple of narcissus have popped their heads out; misled by the unseasonal warm weather into thinking that it is their time.
The air is very cool and bright and clear. It seems to have health giving properties; the kind of oxygenated tonic prized by 19th century European alpine resorts. I go to visit Golden Gully for the first time; it is remarkable. An area on the outskirts of Hill End where the Chinese camped & mined during in the Gold Rush. Walking through giant termite like mounds, the gully leads to a magnificent arch. No one else is around; a forgotten tourist site, eerie and beautiful. There’s a silence that seems like it is trying to tell you something.
In his inspiring book ‘A Time of Gifts’, Patrick Leigh Fermor said that if you spent time in a great European city in the off season, you became an honorary citizen. Maybe that links to the secret of winter in the country- if you know its rawness, its essence, then subtly your connection deepens…